Spring walk

On a day like this, when the morning seems muddy gray promising guaranteed cafard, there is nothing to do but take a long lonely walk. In the changing rooms of the Jean Taris pool I get a shy smile from a swimmer putting on make-up before I dive into the water to think. Of course it would be nice to have a lover along to show around and get this feeling of togetherness on a bright spring day.

The sun comes out frosty at noon. Here is how it works: Starting point Saint-Germain-des-près; you take the 63 bus towards the Gare de Lyon next to the metro exit on the boulevard. Get off before Austerlitz at the Jardin de Plantes and walk up the plane tree lined allee.

Exit to the right past the Musée National d'Histoire Naturelle. I am not in the mood for museums today. There is the hothouse, too, but I move on towards the rue Linne, to climb the rue Lacepede; I take the first right, the rue de Navarre, and enter the Arenes de Lutece.

The empty lion cages are still there, the wide amphitheater is now being used by retired petanque players and a few kids playing ball. It's quiet here. I sit on a bench wondering where Caesar may have sat. Probably with their back to the sun, to the south, where I exit onto the rue Monge.

From here it's all the way down to the Seine, to the quai Montebello, where I descend to the river. Downstream along the quai a ten minute stroll to the pont des Arts; I take a good look up and down the river that flows quiet and fast; I enter the Cour Carrée du Louvre, saturated with some magnificent reliefs.

I cross the rue de Rivoli towards the Palais Royal gardens. Another haven of peace. Past the Buren columns I wander towards the fountain and take an armchair to get some sun in my face. Ah, c'est la vie! A woman sits down next to me and lights a cigarette, studying a city guide. Does she know where I've been? Probably not and she doesn't have the shoes for a long stroll.

Take the rue de Richelieu, if you have the time, to the rue du 4 Septembre, and then to the left, towards the Opera. Or take the shortcut down rue des Petits Champs, then the avenue de l'Opera. Once at the Opera it's time for a break. L'entre actes is the place to visit.

The American Express is there across the street, on the corner of rue Scribe. Henry Miller used to pick up his mail here in the 30s, mostly mail that promised money that never came. Until he received a telegram from his wife June, who would be arriving shortly. In fact he picked up the telegram late and June was already in Paris, boding sentimental tempest, which you can read in his books.

Walk down the rue de la Paix through the place Vendome back towards the rue Rivoli. The place Vendome has the glacial atmosphere of money and power and the column in its center made from cannons captured by Napoleon in Austerlitz make you shudder.

Now is the question whether to pursue your trail to the Champs Elysées, but I prefer to return through the lovely, although frosty Tuilleries. When I return to Saint Germain, the sun is closing down on the horizon, the air is fresh and women are withdrawn.